Congratulations on your purchase of arguably Schumacher’s greatest touring car. This page has been written just to give you the buyer, some feedback on what Gavin Leys and I have found with the car in the few weeks we have been using it. We hope you find the information useful and please feel free to ask us questions at any time either at Metro or down the track.

1. There is no need to flush the bearings. We have found them to be super efficient straight from the box. Schumacher are using light oil in the bearings instead of grease and this has made them quite free straight away.
   
2. When building please make sure all of the arms move freely up and down without the shocks connected. Personally I found all of the pins fitted very well except the front lower inner pin. I just put the pin in a Dremel, and spun it in the arm for a couple of seconds at a time until it was free. Don’t allow the pin to spin for too long as the plastic heats up very quickly and can melt the arm. I guess each kit will be slightly different but just make sure everything moves nicely. When people have problems with handling, it is due to a binding arm the majority of the time.
   
3. We have found that 66-67mm is the best length for the shocks, especially on the rear. I would suggest trying the kit setting of around 64mm first and checking whether you can achieve the correct ride height and droop with the shocks being able to reach full travel. Gavin and I have found 67mm to be a good length to achieve 5-6mm ride height and 3mm droop. Shock length is measured from end to end and it is imperative that you get exactly equal lengths for your shocks. Use a nice pair of calipers to achieve this. Wrongly measured lengths can affect the balance of the car and how much force is applied to each of the shocks. Also shock rebound is important. Basically this is the amount the shock moves after compression. We tend to make this figure about 5mm, and more importantly, all shocks the same. Build the shocks as per the manual and after building, just add or remove oil as required(bleeding) to achieve equal rebound. I guess there is an art to building shocks but really it is very easy and you soon get the hang of it.
   
4. The kit setup has been amazing for us so far. We have only really played with spool(locked) diffs, shock angle changes and body shells so far. Basically for us at TFTR, the spool diff was around 0.4 seconds a lap faster than 4WD. It gives a very slight bit of understeer entering a corner but far superior mid and exit steering. Our cars had far more corner speed also. We presume that a oneway will be faster again as has been the case in the past, and these will arrive shortly.
   
5. The shock angle changes on this car have a very pronounced effect on car handling. The extra position options are a great asset and we found that simply moving the rear shocks out on the lower arm made the car responsive in the rear. The further out you go the more apparent steering you have, but with a looser, yet controllable, rear end.
   
6. As this car comes with lots of alloy standard the number of hopups you can buy is rather less. Titanium pins, turnbuckles and screws can be bought, but the car is underweight out of the box. The car comes with a grey long belt standard and the grey rear belt would be a good option for stock. RW rear pullies fit this car but the standard diff pulley has been improved and the car is super free using that. Alloy shock bottoms make the shock movement slightly smoother and these are cheap to purchase. Alloy hubs will be available and will look great. The standard hubs are excellent though with a great bearing fit.

Enjoy the car and see you on the podium!